Mizuki Yayoi «Fresh · 2026»

When the pandemic hit, Yayoi turned her atelier into a free repair clinic. People left torn jeans, frayed collars, and childhood blankets on her doorstep. She mended them all, sometimes adding small embroidered flowers over the holes—a signature touch. “Mending is not hiding,” she wrote in her hand-printed zine, Stitch & Breathe . “Mending is witnessing.”

But Yayoi refused to scale up. No machines, no assistants, no shortcuts. Each piece took forty to eighty hours. “Fast fashion treats clothes like they’re disposable,” she told a surprised BBC interviewer. “I treat them like they’re going to outlive me. Because they will.” Mizuki Yayoi

High school brought a turning point. Assigned a cultural project on “renewal,” Yayoi discovered the Japanese tradition of boro —the art of mending textiles so they become stronger and more beautiful than before. Peasants in northern Japan had once patched their indigo-dyed hemp with countless scraps of cotton, passing garments down for generations. The philosophy struck her like a wave: nothing was truly broken, only waiting for its next chapter. When the pandemic hit, Yayoi turned her atelier

Today, Mizuki Yayoi is forty-two. She still works alone, still uses her mother’s Singer, and still refuses to own a smartphone. Her hands are calloused, her glasses held together with a scrap of red thread. When young designers ask her for advice, she holds up whatever she’s currently stitching—a 1950s baseball jersey being transformed into a dress for a bride whose grandmother once wore it to Coney Island—and smiles. “Mending is not hiding,” she wrote in her

Her first collection, “Kintsugi for Clothes,” featured a men’s dress shirt that had been torn, re-stitched with gold silk thread, and lined with a 1920s French lace tablecloth. A journalist from a niche craft magazine showed up, wrote a glowing two-paragraph review, and promptly forgot about it. Yayoi did not mind. She had exactly three customers that month—one of whom was her mother.

She began haunting flea markets and temple sales, buying stained obis, frayed happi coats, and moth-eaten wool blankets. Her bedroom became a patchwork laboratory. She disassembled, rearranged, and reimagined, stitching together contradictions: a Meiji-era fireman’s coat with a 1980s punk rock T-shirt; a wedding kimono’s silk crane with a military jacket’s brass buttons. Her classmates called her “the rag witch.” She took it as a compliment.